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A Paris Walking Tour That Will Not Take You By The Louvre
written by Jason Smith Loves The Louvre, December 08, 2012


Please Note: We Moderate All comments. If they have nothing to do with the Louvre Museum in Paris, they will not be approved. I let this one slide because it passed copyscape as unique and it's at least about Paris and makes references to the Louvre:

Hello! Bonjour!

I just wanted to supply an interesing walking tour around Paris and I hope you will post it even if it doesn't specifically swing your readers near the Louvre on this one.

Start: Metro George-V; bus 73.
Finish: Metro Madeliene; buses 24, 42,52,84,94.
Length: 4.25km (2 2/3 miles).
Time: 2hr
Refreshments: this is an expensive area, but there are still a few old-fashioned cafes dotted about, including couple of reasonable restaurants serving decent food at decent prices in Rue de La Sourdiere.
Which day: any day except Sunday, when the area is dead.



Eglise St-Philippe-du-Roule

Leave the metro and find yourself on the Champs-Elysees with a good view over the Arc de Triomphe. With the arc at your back, walk a little way down the left hand side of the avenue and turn left into rue Washington, a typical residential street of the area, mostly developed in the early 19th century. At no 20 is the charming Cite Odiot: walk through the porch and emerge in the private allee. The door is shut at the weekends, but otherwise you can go round and come out again in Rue Washington.

Go along to the wide Avenue Friedland, with Place de Charles-de-Gaulle and the arc on your left. Just on the other side of the avenue stood the celebrated 18th-century Folie Beaujon. Turn right into Rue du faubourg-St-Honore was the entrance to the Comte d’ Artois’s grand stables, demolished during the Empire. Nos 137 and 135 are handsome 19th-century hotels. Cross the elegant Avenue Franklin-D.-Roosevelt and Palce Chassaigne-Goyon to Eglise St-Philippe-du-Roule.

The medieval Village du roule was chiefly celebrated for its goose market. The village was in two distinct parts: the Haut Roule, near what is today Place des Ternes, and the Bas Roule, around where the church now stands. Nothing is left of the village except vestiges off the hotels and flourished nearby in the 18th-century. Rue du Faubourg-St-Honore (once Chaussee du Roule) led from the city to the village. While the village was on the north side of the track, the large ribbon-shaped tract of land between the chaussee and the Champs-Elysees was occupied by the royal nurserie, seedsmen and so on for the gardens of the Louvre and Tuileries. The land was eventually given to the Comte d’ artois, the future Charles X, who decided to develop it with the architect Francois Joseph Belanger (1745-1818) as a ‘Nouvelle Amerique’: the streets were to be named after heroes of the War of Independence. In the end nothing was built, but the names remain-Rue Washington, Rue La Fayette, Place Franklin.

Eglise St-Philippe (1739-1811) in 1774-84 on the site of the ancient parish church of the Bas Roule, and was enlarged first in the 1840s and then again by Victor Baltard (1805-1874) in 1860. Beyond the ribbed vault and coffered ceiling is an interesting half-dome9cul-de-four). The building as a whole was rather novel in the 18th century, and influenced subsequent religious edifices such as Notre-Dame-de-Lorette and even the Chasseriau (1819-1856)-include a fine Descent de la Croix.

Continue along the elegant street and cross Rue La Boetie, which again has many art galleries; this part of St-Honore is reminiscent of London’s bond Street and Cork Street. Rue La Boetie was built over the old track that followed the 6km 3 ¾ mile) Grand Egout (great sewer). Pablo Picasso (1881-1973), tired of slumming it in Montmartre, lived at no 29 in 1918-39; his first wife, Olga Khoklova, occupied a separate floor.

Returning to Rue du-Faubourg-St-Honoree, you find more galleries and bookshops, including two great French art dealers: Picard and Blaizot. Cross Rue de Penthievre.there are two noteworthy hotels, at nos 120, 118 and 85.Cross the elegant Avenue Matignon. At no 114 was the Porte du Roule, the limit of Louis XIII’s wall. At no 110 is the celebrated hotel Bristol, with an excellent restaurant. The art gallery colnaghi is at no 108. Pass Rue du Cirque and reach Place Beauvau, where since 1861 the ministry of the Interior has been housed in the much enlarged Hotel Beauvau (1770). Just before it is Rue de Miromesnil, opened in 1776; Chateaubriand (1768-1848)live at no 31. On the other side is Avenue de Marigny, which borders the gardens of the Palais d’Elysee down to Place Clemenceau. Pass Rue des Saussaies, which has a good bistro a vin, Le Griffonier, at no 8.

As I said, this doesn't take any of your readers near the Louvre Museum. You won't get to see the glass Pyramid or the Mona Lisa, but I do think it's exciting nonetheless for people who want to see the real Paris and are open to walking tours and seeing some other attractions which are off the beat and path.
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written by Jason Smith Loves The Louvre, December 30, 2012
Here is the second part of the walking tour which I had a time to spend more time writing about today:

You will be able to see the Louvre when you are on this walking tour around Paris.

The Palais d’ Elysee

On the other side is the Palais de l’Elysee, the residence of the President of the French Republic; you cannot go in, but you can look intothe courtyard from the pavement. The palais was built at the beginning of the 18th century for Louis Henri de la Tour d’ Auvergne, Comte d’ Evreux, on his death passing to Mme de Pompadour (1721-1764), who enlarged it with the help of Francois Boucher (1703-1770), Jean Baptiste Van Loo (1645-1745) and others. Then the financier Nicolas Beaujon (1718-1786), one of the wealthiest men of the 18th century, purchased it and embellished it; poor Beaujon, ill, impotent and living on a diet of spinach, like nothing better than being pushed around in his wheelchair by bevies of pretty girls from the aristocracy. He sold the hotel to Louis XVI, who gave it in turn to the ‘Princes’ Amelie de Bourbon-conti (1765-1825). Its history during the Revolution and the first Empire is too complicated to unravel, although certainly Napoleon signed his second abdication there, on his way to St Helena. At the restoration the ‘Princes’ was given her hotel back, and she swapped it Louis XVIII for Hotel Matignon. During the reigns of Charles X and Louis-Philippe and the Second Empire, it was used mainly as a residence for foreign dignitaries: Victoria (1819-1901) and Tsar Alexander II (1818-1881) stayed here. Finally, with the advent of the Third Republic the palais became the President’s official residence.

This section of the faubourg is mostly diplomatic. At no 41 is the fine hotel built by Lodovico Visconti (1791-1853) in the 1830s and now the private residence of the US Ambassador. Next door at no 39 is the even finer hotel built in 1723 for the Duc de Charost. Napoleon’s sister, Pauline Borghese (1780-1825) - who also occupied the Petit Trianon-reigned within these walls throughout the Empire. After Waterloo she sold the hotel to the Duke of Wellington (1769-1852), and it has been home to the Bristish embassy ever since. Here Hector Berloiz (1803-1869) married the UK actresses Harriet Smithson (1800-1854), whom all Paris came to applaud in her performances of Ophelia and Juliet, both with Edmund Kean (c1789-1833). Since this site is about the Louvre Museum in Paris, please note that you do get to see the musem while on this tour.

On the other side of the street the world of fashion, in the shape of the Gianni Versace shop, intrudes the world of diplomacy. The 18th century Hotel Chevalier at no 35 is part of the British Embassy.

Further along, Rue Richepance, on your left, is situated over the Couver de la Conception. At Place Maurice-Barres is l’ Eglise d ‘Assomption, now a church for polish community; it was built in the 1960s as the chapel of the Couvent des Dames-de-l’ Assopmtion, of which it is the only surviving part. It is an interesting building, a circle topped by a seemingly over-large dome; inside, there are a couple of good pictures including Van Loo’s Adoration of the Magi.

Pass Rue Cambon, opened 1719, and carry on along Rue St-Honore past a series of fine 17th-century houses on the left. At no 374 was the Royaume de la Rue-St-Honore (plaque), run by marie-Therese Geoffrin (1699-1777), probably the most fashionable literary salon of the later 18th century. Between nos 364 and 360 was the first Capuchin monastery established by Catherine de Medici (1519-1589).

At no 161 Rue St-Honore, where the street joins theplace, the second Porte St-honore, that of the medieval Charles V’s wall, stood from 1830-1636. There were lieutenant, gilles de Rais (1404-1440), with 12,000 men, unsuccessfully tried to force the gates and penetrate the city, which was at the time occupied by the English. And it was here, too, that Henri IV tried to into the capital which refused to acknowledge his right to the crown.

Turn left at no 362 into cour Vendome and reach Place Vendome, one of the Places Rouyales. Turn right, walk past the IBM building and turn right again to return to Rue St-Honore. Cross Rue de Castiglione, on your right, established over the site of the late-17th- century Couvent des Feuillants (part of the Cisterian order) in 1804. This couvent is the building at nos 235-29, built in 1782).

Further along there are more handsome houses, especially at nos 334-where Pierrre de Marivaux (1688-1763) resided for a while – and 211, once the stunning 17th-century Hotel de Noailles, now the Hotels St-James and d’ Albany, where Lafayette lived on his return from the USA.

Please read my blog if you would like to see some tours which take you on walks around Paris that have views of the Louvre or which take you to see the actual Louvre Museum itself.


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